Monthly Archives: January 2018

“Railroads Remembered”

I’ll take a leaf from Andy Rooney’s book, and tell you what bugs me.

*It bugs me that when I want to take the train to Rhode Island, I have to start out by driving from Bath to Rochester – 75 miles in the wrong direction. Which, even once I finally board, makes a trip longer, costlier, and much more tiresome than it need be.

*If I could start out by going to Binghamton… let alone Elmira, Corning, or even (wonder of wonders!) Bath, the trip would be a LOT nicer.

*The glory days of rail are not coming back anytime soon, but railways were vital to development of the Southern Tier. The Conhocton-Chemung-Susquehanna chain used to be a key transportation route, and the Southern Tier was the growth region.

*The Erie Canal, opened in 1825, crashed that growth. DeWitt Clinton, rounding up support for his “big ditch,” promised a future major transportation project for the Southern Tier. Over time that morphed into the Erie Railroad, which opened in 1851. The economy started growing again.

*At Steuben County Historical Society we have a set of diaries in which an Avoca person describes going to Painted Post to get the train… then to Bath… and finally being able to board right in Avoca itself.

*Going from Dansville to Bath on foot would be a hard two-day struggle… about the time it takes now to drive to Omaha. Once the railroad came in, Bath and Dansville were practically next-door neighbors.

*Soon after the Erie opened, the Steuben County sheriff was ordered to take two vagrants to New London, Connecticut, and sign them on board a whaling vessel – a project practical only thanks to the railroad.

*Steuben County has two cities and 14 incorporated villages. Apart from the Village of Hammondsport, every one lies along what was once the route of the Erie Railroad… and even Hammondsport was at the end of a short line eventually taken over by the Erie.

*The grape-and-wine businesses on Seneca and Keuka Lakes probably would have existed without railroads (in Penn Yan, Hammondsport, Watkins, Geneva) to haul out product, but on a much smaller scale.

*Those same lines turned Keuka and Seneca into tourist destinations, as families of the growing middle class rode out from the big cities for summer fun.

*Glenn Curtiss couldn’t have developed his airplane and motorcycle businesses… or at least, he couldn’t have done it in Hammondpsort… without the rail connections.

*Brooklyn Flint Glass Works moved to Corning (150 years ago this summer) to take advantage of its rail connections (though they moved their equipment by canal).

*Theodore Roosevelt, William Jennings Bryan, and Charles Evans Hughes all campaigned in Steuben County, delivered to the spot by rail.

*Aggressive use of rail was key to Union victory in the Civil War. Local men went by rail to Elmira or Rochester, where they were mustered into regiments and given what passed for basic training, then shipped out by rail.

*World War I draft contingents left home by rail. On November 11, 1918, a group that had just left Bath was stopped at Addison. After a few tense hours they got the good word: Go home – the war is over.

*Monthly draft contingents for World War II were sworn in at Steuben County courthouse in Bath, then marched (no doubt very badly) to the DL&W station, whence they were taken off to begin their military life. Joe Paddock was sent to Buffalo, and from there forwarded on via a train that took him – right back through Bath. He gathered some of his new friends on the platform of the observation car, and gave them a “tour” of his home town as the train chugged slowly through.

*Rails have been vital to the life of the Southern Tier. Ian Mackenzie, author of “Railroads Remembered: The History of Railroads in Western New York and Western Pennsylvania,” will give a presentation on the topic at 4 PM Friday, Feb. 2, in Bath Fire Hall, and books will be available for purchase. This is part of the Steuben County Historical Society Winter Lecture Series, and is free and open to the public. We hope we’ll see you!

A Trip Through (Some of) the Hamlets

There are two cities and 32 Towns in Steuben County, and in the Towns there lie 14 incorporated villages. (Thirteen and a fraction if you want to be persnickity, since Almond lies mostly in Allegany County.)

*Then there are places that are now only the faintest of memories… Hermitage, Lumber City, Beartown, Liberty Pole, Harrisburg Hollow. Once they were homes, and they were loved, and now they’re all but forgotten.

*But the official map of Steuben County also shows 72 (!) named-but-unincorporated communities, sometimes called hamlets or settlements, and each of these is interesting in its own right.

*Coss Corners and Unionville lie in the southern upland stretches of Bath, on County Road 10. Coss Corners is now just a handful of houses around the crossroad, but Unionville still has enough homes to form its own little community… though not enough to support, as it did in 1873, a school, a tannery, a shoe shop, and a blacksmith.

*Also in Bath we find Kanona… originally Kennedyville. The Erie Railroad, the DL&W, and the Kanona & Prattsburgh railroad all had stations here, a concentration that supported five hotels along with churches and other businesses. Interestingly Kanona still earns much of its bread from travelers, supporting two large truck stops at Exit 37 on I-390.

*Prattsburgh, of course, lay at the other end of the K&P. Once an incorporated village, the community gave up that distinction some years ago. But like Kanona, it is still a settlement of some size, supporting a library, several historic churches, a lovely square, the central school, and the Narcissa Prentiss House Museum. Narcissa was an early graduate of the school (Franklin Academy), and arguably Prattsburgh’s most famous citizen. She has a monument in front of Franklin.

*Her husband-to-be, Dr. Marcus Whitman, practiced in Wheeler, in the Town of the same name. Wheeler was also (much later) on the K&P. Wheeler’s in the horse-and-buggy country. It has an active church, a Grange, a monument to Marcus, and the old one-room school (now a residence).

*Campbell lies almost in the center of the Town of the same name. Also a rail stop in days gone by, Campbell has the Campbell-Savona High School. The “Stone House” by the river was once a blacksmith shop. The old Presbyterian church (more recently an antique store) had a brush with future fame in the 1880s, for the pastor’s teenaged daughter would become the hyper-prolific novelist Grace Livingston Hill, beloved by generations of readers.

*Hornby, or Hornby Forks (in the Town of Hornby) has an active church, the town historical museum (in the old one-room school), and a very early World War I monument.

*Keuka, on Keuka Lake in the town of Wayne, used to be called Keuka Village or Keuka Landing. It was the site of a much-visited resort, Keuka Hotel, where such luminaries as Fred Waring and Hoagie Charmichael entertained the guests. The Hotel’s gone, but Keuka’s still a busy lakeside place in the summers.

*Keuka’s down at the lake level, but Wayne, or Wayne Village, is up on the height. It lies partly in Schuyler County, and it’s where you’ll find the Town offices.

*Hartsville, in the like-named Town on the western fringe of the county, has a fair number of houses, a church, and the Town offices, but no longer any consumer businesses. Jasper (in Jasper), on County 417, is a rather bigger place, with its own library. Like Wheeler, Jasper is horse-and-buggy territory.

*Gang Mills in Erwin got its name from sawmills that once operated there, where the Tioga and Conhocton Rivers come together (and where they flooded catstrophically in 1935 and 1972). If we were naming it today, we’d call it Gang Shopping Centers!

Hidden History: The Ku Klux Klan Grips Western New York

One of the puzzles of our history is how western New York fell under the sway of the Ku Klux Klan in the 1920s. Most people would have thought it was a relic of Reconstruction days down south. But exploding almost from nowhere after the First World War, the Klan suddenly became a great power in the land, up to and including controlling the goverments in some states… even in the north. In New York it was especially powerful on Long Island, in Binghamton, and here in the western counties.

*Hate, bigotry, prejudice, stereotypes, and POWER drove the Klan. In the 1920s, a CATHOLIC, Al Smith, was governor of New York! He ran for president! Well, this was a Protestant country! “Everybody knew” that Catholics HAD to obey orders from their priests, or they would go to Hell, and priests HAD to follow orders from the Pope, so all the Catholic voters would put a Catholic in the white house, and we would be ruled from Rome by the Pope pulling the president’s strings. When Al Smith campaigned through Oklahoma in 1928, the Klan burned crosses all along the railroad route. It didn’t break him, and it didn’t stop him. But his family said that the tidal wave of hatred haunted him for the rest of his life.

*Fear also drove the Klan, and certainly there were things to be afraid about. Here in our region in the 1920s, farm folks were already in the grip of the Depression. As far back as 1900 families had begun walking away from the hilltop farms, which had become so uncompetitive that there wasn’t even any point in trying to sell the land. Now prices collapsed as World War I ended, and farmers were stuck with time payments on the tractors and other equipment that they’d bought to replace the young men who went into uniform. Prohibition clobbered the grape growers and the wineries. The big Curtiss plant in Hammondsport closed, putting almost a thousand people out of work. Then the young men came back from the war, and couldn’t find work, as the government said, not OUR problem! If you haven’t got a job it’s because you’re lazy, or because you’re not good enough to be hired. It’s your own fault.

*Motorcars annihilated economic life out in the hamlets. They had had their own stores, schools, doctors, churches, undertakers. But who needed the little store in Coss Corners or Harrisburg Hollow when you could drive to Bath… or from Perkinsville to Wayland, Bloomerville to Avoca, Hornby to Corning? The rich man of Risingville was now a guy who ran a funny little shop in the sticks, with an outhouse in the back, and a kerosene lamp on the counter.

*How could this be happening? How was their way of life being snatched away from them? They could have answered this question by sitting down to study historical, social, economic and technological forces, OR they could grab a prepackaged answer that (a) was easy and (b) gave THEM no blame and no responsibility whatsoever!

*So if you didn’t have jobs, it’s because of the immigrants! If kids were leaving the churches, it’s because of modern ideas foisted on us by faraway professors and writers and movie makers! If the bank wouldn’t extend your loan, it’s because the Jews are strangling us! If there was crime, it’s because of all those Italian mobsters that we’ve never actually SEEN, but people keep telling us about! If our political power was slipping away, it’s because women can vote now, and so many people have moved to those cities!

*The Klan got its start as a terrorist group attacking African Americans, and also attacking white Americans who believed in a biracial country. One of the first movie spectaculars, “The Birth of a Nation,” had whitewashed and popularized it in the ‘teens, and that surely helped the “new” Klan, along with aggressive modern marketing and advertising techniques.

*So did the expansion of its “mission.” Here in our area, Klan propaganda against African Americans seemed sort of pro forma. Their real rage was reserved for Catholics, Jews, immigrants, and leftists.

*The Klan was wildly popular in, and enthusiastically supported by, many area Protestant churches. In Penn Yan they picketed against the Catholic church, and boycotted non-Protestant businesses. Many churches hosted Ku Klux Klan delegations, in which robed and hooded Klansmen marched into services singing “Onward Christian Soldiers,” made a donation, and received the blessing of the pastor and the thunderous applause of the congregation. Crosses burned on hills throughout the region, and sometimes on the lawns of Catholics and immigrants.

*The movement lost steam once Al Smith passed from power, and the Great Depression demanded everyone’s full attention. The Klan’s state head in Indiana raped and brutalized his secretary, then prevented her from getting medical help until she died, undercutting the Klan’s claim to be defending Christian morality.

*People in our region gave up on the Klan, and pretty much stopped talking about it. But a surprising number kept their robes, regalia, and other memorabilia, squirreled away in attics in trunks that would be opened by horrified grandchildren cleaning out after the old folks’ deaths.

*One senior citizen told me that his father-in-law had admitted his long-ago membership in the Klan, but insisted that the only real issue locally was to demand than any voter be required to be literate in English. While that concern would fit, I have to say that I’ve never actually found it in any documents from the 1920s. My friend and I both assumed that that was how the father-in-law, decades later, justified to himself the years that he spent in America’s leading hate group.

A Heavy Toll: Steuben County in the Civil War (Part II)

Over 500 Steuben County men died in the Civil War… an 1878 history lists 498 of them, but has missing or incomplete figures for Howard, Wayland, and Prattsburgh.
*Disease was the biggest killer of that war, so the 99 dead of illness is no surprise. There were also 176 unspecified deaths, which were probably overwhelmingly due to illness.
*Seven deaths came from accident, two from suicide. Forty-nine Steuben County fellows died in Confederate captivity. There were 165 deaths from battle causes.
*I tried to narrow this down – were there particular battles or campaigns where the deaths ran into large numbers? Civil War units were formed mostly geographically, so a town or a county could suffer catastrophic losses all at once.
*Omitting illness and unspecified, the Confederate prison system was the biggest killer. The second-biggest was a SINGLE camp, at Andersonville in Georgia (24). The commandant at Andersonville was hanged after the Civil War’s only war crimes trial.
*Next came the Battle of Antietam, with 18 dead… no surprise. Even with the rest of the Civil War, World War I, and World War II… even with bombs and tanks and rockets and poison gas… Antietam remains the bloodiest single day in American military history.
*There were 16 deaths in the Wilderness, 16 at Dallas/New Hope Church, 11 at Gettysburg, 7 at Second Bull Run, six each at Fredericksburg and Chancellorsville, and four each at Resaca and Sabine Crossroads. Most of these were big death-toll battles in general, but they all were multi-day affairs – making the 18 dead during sunlit hours of a September 17, 1862 at Antietam all the more horrifying.
*When looked at by campaigns, Sherman’s Atlanta Campaign just edges out Andersonville (25 deaths to 24). Twenty men died in the Overland Campaign, ten in the Siege of Petersburg, and eight in the Peninsula Campaign.
*Taking a birds-eye look at Steuben towns in the Civil War, Bath sent the most men (455), but Corning had the most deaths (44, to Bath’s 43). Troupsburg sent an unbelieveable 222 men to the Civil War, and 62 of them died… making the highest death rate (28%) of any municipality in Steuben County. We’ll look at Troupsburg’s calvary in more detail at a later date.

Out of the House, and in From the Cold — Check Out Our Museums!

Last week we looked at places to get out of the house, while still keeping warm, and we put the spotlight on our wonderful public libraries. For more great places to get out of the house but in from the cold, try our region’s many museums.

*The huge CORNING MUSEUM OF GLASS is rightly world-renowned. If you haven’t been for a while, stop in again. It’s constantly growing, constantly changing. It’s art, industry, science, local history, and pop culture. (Look for your Mom’s Pyrex, Corelle, and CorningWare.) EXTRA SPECIAL: the hot glass show, where glass artists create while you watch.

*Corning’s “other” museum sometimes gets unjustly overshadowed by the Glass Museum. But the ROCKWELL MUSEUM is worth repeat visits all on its own… to be honest, we’re at the Rockwell more than we are at the Glass Museum. It’s a worthy memorial to Mr. and Mrs. Rockwell… I knew him, and he was always a pleasure to visit. The Rockwell has had a history of groping for its own identity, but is now a Smithsonian Affiliate, focusing on art of the American experience. EXTRA SPECIAL: contemporary art by Native American and Latin American artists.

*I used to be director of the GLENN CURTISS MUSEUM, and I’m always amazed at the number of local folks who haven’t been, or who think it’s still in the old 1860 academy building. Curtiss Museum tells a triple-barreled tale… the Curtiss story, the early aviation story, and the story of a typical small town experiencing the flood of change in the early 20th century. EXTRA SPECIAL: the workshop, where volunteers restore of reproduce flying aircraft.

*Curtiss Museum’s sister institution is the NATIONAL SOARING MUSEUM atop Harris Hill, overlooking Big Flats. Snowy windy days are not the best for driving up that hill, but otherwise make a stop if you haven’t done so. Maybe you think you’re not especially interested in “the silent grace of motorless flight” – but soaring, gliders, and sailplanes have been an important part of our region’s economy and heritage. Why not learn something new? EXTRA SPECIAL: a large guest exhibit of dollhouses and miniatures.

*The OLIVER AND UNDERWOOD MUSEUMS in Penn Yan center on life in the Yates County area, from pre-contact Native times onward. EXTRA SPECIAL: Jemima Wilkinson’s coachee (a cut-down carriage) and other memorabilia. To her 18th-century followers Jemima’s word was not law… it was Divine Law. Eccentric she may have been, but she’s one of the founding figures of our region.

*CHEMUNG VALLEY HISTORY MUSEUM focuses on life in and around Elmira, including Mark Twain and the “big horn” (a mammoth tusk) which gives Chemung its name. EXTRA SPECIAL: this is the original home of Chemung Canal Bank, so you can still see the vault.

*Where would we be without our lakes? Check out the still-new (and ever-growing) FINGER LAKES BOATING MUSEUM near Hammondsport. Besides seeing the boats (and getting a whiff of summer), you can often watch restoration work, just as you can at nearby Curtiss. EXTRA SPECIAL: FLBM’s main building is the old Taylor (originally Columbia) winery, with its lovely 19th-century stone vaults and dark woodwork.

*And all that’s just for starters! Watch this space – more to come!