Monthly Archives: May 2015

“Going to Church”

Our area benefits a lot from tourism, and tourism is… whatever somebody wants to see or do. Railfans will bushwhack through the brush for half an hour to get to the place where the tracks USED to be, and consider it the best morning they’ve ever spent. Genealogists haunt the cemeteries. Some people enjoy wine tastings, though many others find that the most bizarre waste of time they could imagine. And golf is something you get, or you don’t get; there’s no middle ground.

Both tourists and local folks (not just here, but anywhere) often miss the thought of churches as places of interest. They have historical, social, architectural, religious, spiritual, and ecclesiastical significance, and they’re not usually hard to find. “Where there is a church there is civilization,” in the words of Lord Peer Wimsey. Our region has quite a few interesting edifices for churches and places of worship.

The FIRST PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH in Bath is a standout by any standard. Its late 19th-century incarnation was largely funded by the Davenport family, entrepreneurs and benefactors of fame in the county seat. The massive stone edifice rises dramatically on the courthouse square, right on the axis of Liberty Street.

Visitors come literally from around the world to view the sumptuous sanctuary, magnificently designed by Louis Comfort Tiffany. The church hosts drop-in tours on Wednesdays following the Fourth of July and through August, and by appointment.

ST. THOMAS EPISCOPAL CHURCH, farther up Liberty Street, is a fitting counterpoint to First Presbyterian. Also a massive stone structure, with a sky-piercing spire, the St. Thomas edifice is the oldest in Bath village. The congregation is now celebrating its bicentennial.

The EPISCOPAL CHURCH OF THE GOOD SHEPHERD, by contrast to these breathtaking edifices, is a lovely century-old cobblestone creation, with craftsman-style touches, tucked quietly away on a side street in Savona. GARRETT MEMORIAL CHAPEL, meanwhile, is a jewelbox Norman Gothic style church on Keuka Bluff, with services on summer Sundays. The winemaking Garrett family built it in memory of a son who died young.

TEMPLE BETH-EL, an impressive understated structure on Church Street in Hornell, is interesting as home to the only formal Jewish congregation in Steuben County.

If you go looking for HARRISBURG HOLLOW METHODIST CHURCH outside Bath, you won’t find it. What you WILL find is the steeple – JUST the steeple – standing there for all the world like the lamppost in Narnia.

TOWN LINE CHURCH in Rathbone is interesting (to me, it’s also familiar), because it follows the old New England pattern of two front doors leading to two side aisles, rather than the more common central door and a central aisle.

Reverend Thomas K. Beecher (brother of Harriet Beecher Stowe) ministered at PARK CHURCH in Elmira, where a statue honors his memory. During his time here he led the church in creating a large up-to-date facility with banquet hall, social rooms, play space, and library – the forerunner of the modern mega-church.

George Pullman (the sleeper-car millionaire) underwrote PULLMAN MEMORIAL UNIVERSALIST CHURCH of Albion in honor of his father. It was built with local Medina sandstone and includes 56 (!) Tiffany windows.

ST. JANUARIUS CATHOLIC CHURCH in Naples has a remarkable 1966 edifice that delightfully complements its vineyard setting. It also features a chalet roof, and its floor plan represents a grape leaf. This is a fine example of modern church architecture, at once thoughtful and innovative. It draws from, adds to, and fits into its surroundings.

And, of course, you should see ST. GABRIEL’S CHURCH in Hammondsport – just because it’s the coolest Catholic Church in the coolest small town in America!

Joe Paddock — Hall of Fame

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Last week in this space we looked at the careers of two inductees for the Steuben County Hall of Fame 2015 class. James W. Empey from Bath was a fighter ace and hero of World War II who went on to fly dangerous unarmed missions in Vietnam. John Kennedy from Kanona (or Kennedyville, as it was back then) was a hero in the War of 1812, then went on to serve in various public offices, notably as the first man elected county sheriff without having earlier held the office by appointment.

The final inductee was Dr. Joseph Emory Paddock, who was officially inducted on the first anniversary of his death. It was not the first time he’d been suggested, but Joe had always firmly quashed such suggestions in the past. With his passing, moves quickly got on foot to place his name in nomination.

Joe was born in 1927 in the Italy area of Yates County, but his family moved north of Bath to Mitchellsville Road while he was still young. He attended the one-room school (now a private home) on Brundage Road, then went on to Haverling School, from which he was graduated in 1944. Like nearly all the young men of those years he quickly went into World War II military service, though he would always make clear, with a smile, that he was in the “chair-borne” division, serving with the army’s adjutant general department. His draft detachment went by train from Bath to Buffalo. There it was assembled with other groups and then shipped by train back through Bath to points east. Joe gave a drive-by tour of the village from the observation car.

For several summers he did the backbreaking work of a railroad gandy dancer – working with a team using long crowbars to buck the rails into place. After 1948 graduation from the University of Rochester he followed an uncle’s footsteps to Cornell and a doctorate of veterinary medicine.

Thus he began a 42-year career as a veterinarian in Steuben County. (Plus a reserve stint in the veterinary corps, giving him the ineffable joy of working with army mules).

When Joe started out there were 300 dairies in the Town of Bath alone (half a dozen of them inside the Village limits), and his work was overwhelmingly with large animals. Routinely testing the county farm herd one morning, he was shaken to discover that they were all tubercular. He hurried to inform the disbelieving state veterinarian, who lived locally, and insisted that Joe must have done the test wrong. They got the same result when they did it together, and investigation finally revealed that a jailhouse trustee who worked with the animals had unsuspected and asymptomatic tuberculosis.

Decades later Joe could describe in detail each long-gone farm, its location, its family, and its animals. In 2007 Cornell College of Veterinary Medicine dedicated the Paddock Lecture Hall in honor of Joe, his brother, and their uncle.

Small animals were part of the practice from the start, and children’s pets were often treated without charge. Joe was one of the founders (and a past president) of what became the Finger Lakes Humane Society. Last year the humane society was researching its own history as background for an anniversary and the capital campaign. In almost the last thing he ever did at Magee House, Joe went into the archives and pulled a scrapbook on the earliest years of the humane society.

Which segues into another aspect of Joe’s life, the Steuben County Historical Society. I don’t suppose even he could have counted the hours he dedicated to S.C.H.S. He was a former president, a former treasurer, a long-time board member. He authored or co-authored three books of local history, and numerous articles for the S.C.H.S. quarterly magazine, Steuben Echoes. He served on the Village of Bath Historic Preservation Committee, and the Steuben County Hall of Fame Committee.

In a tremendously significant move, Joe was instrumental in transforming the old Davenport Library into the Magee House, our current home for the County Historian and County Historical Society. As part-time society director, I often wind up unlocking the place in the morning, or locking up later on. Usually it’s alone and quiet, and it always reminds me of that pleasant July morning five years ago when I came on professionally, after having been a member since my earliest days in Bath. It reminds me of Joe giving me keys that morning, and taking me around to show me the ins and outs of the place.

Every week somebody asks a local history question that sparks the same answer – Joe would know. Back in March we needed a document to include with a grant application, and we couldn’t find a copy anyplace we’d have expected to. After we’d puzzled for a while I got an inspiration, rushed to Joe’s old desk, and riffled through his files. He had a copy, of course. Thank you, Joe. Still looking out for us.

From Muskets to Mustangs — 2015 Steuben Couny Hall of Fame (Part I)

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The 2015 class of Steuben County Hall of Fame was honored on May 2. As usual, they were three in number. All three are deceased. All three are male. All three are military veterans, but only one was honored strictly for his military service, and one partly so.

JOHN KENNEDY lived so far back that we don’t have any clue about his appearance – not even a sketch or a silhouette. He was one of the Kennedys of Kennedyville – now called Kanona.

During the War of 1812 he was an ensign in the militia, and on October 31 of that year General van Rensellaer ordered an attack across the Niagara River. Many of the militia balked, insisting that they were organized only for defense of the state, not for an offensive out of the country into Canada.

The frustrated general asked for volunteers, and Kennedy stepped up. Once they had crossed his company captain reported himself sick and hustled back to the American side. When the new commander was badly wounded Kennedy gathered his own men and whatever disorganized troops he could find into a scratch company with himself at the head… all the time under fire. The Battle of Queenston Heights became a series of small fights, in which Kennedy led from the front, always in danger. He even led his untried and untrained force on a bayonet charge that broke up an attack by redcoat veterans.

Two years later he was back, now captain of a new Steuben County company at the siege of Fort Erie. Once he led a sortie to capture a fortified artillery position, drive off its troops, sabotage the big guns, and rush back to safety. Instead of medals in those days they gave out brevets, or honorary promotions. Kennedy was jumped up three ranks to colonel.

Back home he ran an inn a Kennedyville, held several public offices, and in 1825 became the second elected sheriff in Steuben history – the first to be elected without having earlier held the spot by appointment. Eventually he moved out Dansville way, but only spent six months there before his death at 42. Sad to say, no one now even knows where he’s buried.

JAMES W. EMPEY of Bath joined up for World War II when he turned 18, and in 1943 arrived in Corsica to start flying Spitfire fighter planes against the Germans. A year later he was using the far more modern P-51 Mustang, and in one of these he shot down five German aircraft – making himself an “ace” – in thirty days.

Considering that most pilots never shot down an enemy, this was a remarkable achievement – perhaps the only “ace” ever from Steuben County. After the war he became an Air Force test pilot.

A couple of decades later he was back in the fight, sick and tired, he said, of 18- and 19-year-olds coming back from Vietnam in body bags. Disbelieving youngsters called him the Red Baron as he slipped into the cockpit wearing his goggles, white scarf, and leather helmet from World War II. Now instead of testing cutting-edge aircraft he was taking to the skies in a slow unarmed Cessna O-1 “Bird Dog” (first used in 1947), getting in close to spot and mark enemy positions so that the F-100 Super Sabres could jet in and blast them. He retired as a lieutenant colonel with a Silver Star, two Distinguished Flying Crosses, and no less than 27 air medals.

Next week: a look at the third 2015 inductee, Dr. Joseph E. Paddock.

What I Did Next Summer

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It’s a joke or a stereotype… the September back-to-school assignment for an essay on What I Did Last Summer.
Well, I have some thoughts on what I want to do THIS summer. Some of them have actually been on the list for quite a while. But it seems like whenever I’m about to get started, some family member winds up in the hospital. Still, a man can dream… and try… so, what I’d like to do not just SOME summer, but THIS summer….

Visit Genesee Country Village. I’ve been there several times before, but not for quite a few years. In particular I want to walk the nature trails. I want to see the gallery of outdoor and wildlife art. And I want to see their reproduction Civil War observation balloon.
Two out of three of those are going to be weather dependent, of course. If weather permits, maybe I can squeeze in watching a game of “town ball,” that very early version of baseball.

Hike the Letchworth Trail. This is 26 miles along the east rim of the gorge, in Letchworth State Park. Had I been on my own theoretical schedule, I’d have finished two years ago. As it is, I haven’t yet started. Onward!

While I’m over thataway, visit the early 19th-century Mills Mansion in Mount Morris. Each year some of my American History students visit for one of their required projects, but I’ve yet to be in town and available at a time when it’s open. I’ve got to plan ahead and do that.

Tour the new wing at Corning Museum of Glass. I’ve had several invitations, but schedule hasn’t permitted. This summer I hope to make it happen.

Walk and bird-watch frequently in Mossy Bank Park, above Bath. My wife and I were just there this morning, now that it’s reopened for the season. An 1851 diarist wrote of how it had become a Bath fad to go up to Mossy Bank for picnics and rambling. And we’re still at it! Most seasons lately, we even have eagles and osprey.

Hit Cruisin’ Night in Penn Yan. That’s loads of fun with the crowds, the old cars, the open library, stores and restaurants. We miss it about as often as we hit it, mostly through inattention, but this year we’re trying to schedule it in. (June 19th!)

Play some miniature golf. At least as of last season there were courses in Bath, Penn Yan, Harris Hill, Corning, Wellsboro, and Watkins Glen. We still haven’t covered them all.

Spend a day at the Windmill. With all that hospitalization, we’ve missed the past two years. But wait till this year!

Walk in to Taughannock Falls. Mrs. Window on the West hasn’t had a chance to do that, but now we’ve actually got it in the calendar! (Weather permitting.)

Go to Steuben County Fair in Bath. I’ll probably wind up volunteering at the one-room school, so that should make it easy.

Get the bike tuned up, and start cycling to work. It’s a catch-22 with Addison’s disease – you need the exercise, but you pretty much start the day already tired. Still, except for emotional inertia (and bad weather), there’s really nothing to stop me.

Do some hiking on the main Finger Lakes Trail in the Burdett-Watkins Glen area, linking up stretches that I’ve already hiked.

Visit Record Archive (a cool place) in Rochester, and pick up some more music CDs to listen to while I’m driving.

Well, all that should keep me busy. Maybe it’s too much for a single summer, but we live in an area with lots of great stuff to do. And without some planning ahead, the whole summer will just turn into work and grocery shopping. Summer in the Finger Lakes should be much more than that.