Tag Archives: Finger Lakes Boating Museum

In the Days of the River Arks

In days gone by, the Conhocton and Canisteo Rivers were the heads of one of the nation’s great trade routes.

*Charles Williamson commissioned a study on clearing the rivers to make them navigable by arks of 75 by 16 feet. George McClure built the first ark, and made the first experimental voyage, loaded with lumber, staves, and wooden pipe. It took a half hour to get five miles from Bath, where they grounded… then about six days to get from there to Painted Post, where they waited another four or five days for the river to rise. “We made a fresh start, and in four days ran 200 miles.” Aiming for Baltimore he got grounded near Harrisburg and negotiated a decent deal for his cargo there, having established that the thing could be done.

*Doing business in Bath and Dansville with his brother Charles, McClure took in 4000 bushels of wheat and 200 barrels of pork. He built four arks at Arkport, and these were the first to navigate the Canisteo, running all the way down to Baltimore. One winter he built eight arks at Bath and four on the Canisteo, shipping flour to Baltimore and wheat to Columbia. “The river was in fine order and he made a prosperous voyage and a profitable sale.”

*He also bought fur, pelts, and deer hams, shipping them downriver. One year he boarded 40 head of “the best and largest cattle” onto arks, shipped them to Columbia, Pennsylvania, and drove them overland to Philadelphia, “where they sold to good advantage.”

*On April 4, 1800, Friedrich Barthles sent out two arks from the outlet of Mud Lake (Bradford): one built by Colonel Williamson, 72’ x 15’; the other by Nathan Harvey, 71’ x 15’. When he needed water, Mr. Barthles opened a gate at the mill pond. “Thus it was ascertained to a certainty, that, by improving those streams, we could transport our produce to Baltimore – a distance of 300 miles – in the spring of the year, for a mere trifle.”

*Christopher Hurlbut built an ark in Arkport in 1800, sending it to Baltimore laden with wheat. He built a storehouse on the east bank of the Canisteo, to which came farmers from Genesee Valley with butter, cheese, wheat, corn, etc., “waiting only for the ‘Moving of the Waters.’” Thousands of bushels were shipped annually, as many as 11 arks a year.

*Hurlbut also “Obtained the passage of an act by the Legislature of this State making the Canisteo river a ‘public highway,’ and made it a channel of commerce down whose waters were borne much of the products of the ‘Genesee Country.’”

*Storehouses went up in Bath, including three at the foot of Ark Street. Sleighs crowded in from Geneva and the Genesee. In spring arks were floated to the storehouses, grain was poured into them in bulk, and the pilots, “with their jolly helpers,” began their returnless journey. About 1 in 10 “emptied its contents into the river.” “When Bath was on the eve of realizing Williamson’s expectations, the canals were constructed; and lo! its glory departed. The ark of the Conhocton passed into history; the rats took possession of the storehouses; the roofs caved in; the beams rotted away, and what was left of them tumbled into ruins.” And so an age came to an end.

*At 7:00 on Thursday, October 17 I’ll be at Finger Lakes Boating Museum, giving a talk on the arks and the arkers from those early days of our region’s history. We hope you’ll join us.

Out of the House, and in From the Cold — Check Out Our Museums!

Last week we looked at places to get out of the house, while still keeping warm, and we put the spotlight on our wonderful public libraries. For more great places to get out of the house but in from the cold, try our region’s many museums.

*The huge CORNING MUSEUM OF GLASS is rightly world-renowned. If you haven’t been for a while, stop in again. It’s constantly growing, constantly changing. It’s art, industry, science, local history, and pop culture. (Look for your Mom’s Pyrex, Corelle, and CorningWare.) EXTRA SPECIAL: the hot glass show, where glass artists create while you watch.

*Corning’s “other” museum sometimes gets unjustly overshadowed by the Glass Museum. But the ROCKWELL MUSEUM is worth repeat visits all on its own… to be honest, we’re at the Rockwell more than we are at the Glass Museum. It’s a worthy memorial to Mr. and Mrs. Rockwell… I knew him, and he was always a pleasure to visit. The Rockwell has had a history of groping for its own identity, but is now a Smithsonian Affiliate, focusing on art of the American experience. EXTRA SPECIAL: contemporary art by Native American and Latin American artists.

*I used to be director of the GLENN CURTISS MUSEUM, and I’m always amazed at the number of local folks who haven’t been, or who think it’s still in the old 1860 academy building. Curtiss Museum tells a triple-barreled tale… the Curtiss story, the early aviation story, and the story of a typical small town experiencing the flood of change in the early 20th century. EXTRA SPECIAL: the workshop, where volunteers restore of reproduce flying aircraft.

*Curtiss Museum’s sister institution is the NATIONAL SOARING MUSEUM atop Harris Hill, overlooking Big Flats. Snowy windy days are not the best for driving up that hill, but otherwise make a stop if you haven’t done so. Maybe you think you’re not especially interested in “the silent grace of motorless flight” – but soaring, gliders, and sailplanes have been an important part of our region’s economy and heritage. Why not learn something new? EXTRA SPECIAL: a large guest exhibit of dollhouses and miniatures.

*The OLIVER AND UNDERWOOD MUSEUMS in Penn Yan center on life in the Yates County area, from pre-contact Native times onward. EXTRA SPECIAL: Jemima Wilkinson’s coachee (a cut-down carriage) and other memorabilia. To her 18th-century followers Jemima’s word was not law… it was Divine Law. Eccentric she may have been, but she’s one of the founding figures of our region.

*CHEMUNG VALLEY HISTORY MUSEUM focuses on life in and around Elmira, including Mark Twain and the “big horn” (a mammoth tusk) which gives Chemung its name. EXTRA SPECIAL: this is the original home of Chemung Canal Bank, so you can still see the vault.

*Where would we be without our lakes? Check out the still-new (and ever-growing) FINGER LAKES BOATING MUSEUM near Hammondsport. Besides seeing the boats (and getting a whiff of summer), you can often watch restoration work, just as you can at nearby Curtiss. EXTRA SPECIAL: FLBM’s main building is the old Taylor (originally Columbia) winery, with its lovely 19th-century stone vaults and dark woodwork.

*And all that’s just for starters! Watch this space – more to come!