So I was reading the August 8, 1827
Norwich Courier and completely missed that the steam mill was in
Providence and not Norwich until after I had a fundraising thought
whirling through my head. What if one or more of the historical
churches, committees, groups, or organizations had such a treat as a
fundraiser or sold such historic tastes in cupcake foils.
This is the article that spurred my
thoughts, “The proprietors of a Steam Mill, lately erected in
Providence, last week gave a public supper of Hasty Pudding and Milk,
of which about 150 of the inhabitants, including doctors, professors,
students, manufacturers, mechanics, editors and printers, partook to
their hearts content. The knights of the quill give a very amusing
account of the performances at table, & of the quantity devoured,
and appear to be in much better writing order for being full fed on
wholesome food. One of them remarks that, agreeable to the prevalent
fashion of the town, no ardent spirits were introduced-no china nor
fingers were burnt-no milk nor molasses spilt, and no one was seen
either on or under the table from the commencement to the close of
the festival. “
So what exactly is Hasty-Pudding? The description reminded me an awful lot of a fancy pancake breakfast. Recipe books and the internet gave me a variety from raisins to other dried fruit, cranberries, blueberries, candied fruit, candied ginger, diced peppers, maple syrup, caramel, molasses, dustings of cocoa, fruit powders and powdered sugar. But, with tremendous gratitude I found the following from Preservation Maryland 10/09/2016 with only the suggestion you adjust the recipe to suit your own and your family tastes. I am a bit heavier handed with the spices and added a little chili powder to the mix of one batch and 5 spice powder for a different punch on a third. My favorite was the five spice with maple syrup and butter but it did go well with lemon marmalade too.
Hasty Pudding was first described in
England around 1599, and appeared in numerous recipes from the
American colonies throughout the 18th century.
When Hasty Pudding came to America, the recipe changed to incorporate
cornmeal, then also known as Indian meal, which was cheaper
and more abundant than the English flour that the original recipe
called for. Because of this substitution as well as the similarity
between a native dish, Hasty Pudding became alternately known as
Indian Pudding. The recipe was anything but hasty, since the pudding
could take up to a few hours for colonists to cook!
In 1796, Amelia Simmons of Hartford, CT wrote a recipe for “Hasty Pudding” in the first American recipe book, American Cookery, with the instructions:
“3 pints scalded milk, 7 spoons of fine Indian meal, stir
together while hot, let stand till cooled; add 7 eggs, half pound of
raisins, 4 ounces butter, spice and sugar; bake one and a half hour.”
Here, is a modernized version of a Hasty Pudding in the spirit of
Amelia Simmons, as it captures what was popular among colonists and
captures the adaptation that sometimes must take place in a new
environment.
Ingredients
- 2-3 pints Milk (or cream,
depending on desired thickness)
- 1 ½ cups Cornmeal
- 1 ½ cups Melted Butter
- 1 cup Sugar
- 2-3 Eggs
- ¼ tsp Cinnamon
- ¼ tsp Nutmeg
- ¼ tsp Ginger
- ¼ tsp Cloves
- ¼ tsp Pumpkin Pie Seasoning
(optional, good for flavor!)
- ¾ cup Raisins (optional)
Directions
- Scald the milk in a pan, and stir
in cornmeal while still hot. Continue stirring on the heat until the
mixture thickens.
- Remove from heat and let cool.
- Stir together melted butter,
sugar, and eggs in a separate bowl, and mix it in.
- Add in spices and raisins as
needed according to the taste.
- Pour into cupcake tins or a pie
tin and bake in the oven at 350 degrees for 30 minutes.
- Enjoy!
The above modernized method of cooking yielded a light,
cinnamon-flavored bread, which was delicious with a pat of butter and
a bit of jam.
The Maryland Preservation posts
were prepared and written by Miranda Villesvik, one of Preservation
Maryland’s Waxter Interns.
Connecticut
resources were not so generous to include old or updated recipes
while listing the Connecticut connections such as the following from
Amy
Nawrocki and Eric D. Lehman who teach creative writing and
literature at the University of Bridgeport.
The
first Connecticut colonists found corn-based dishes practically
inedible. The niece of Governor John Winthrop wrote to him from
Stamford in 1649, happily declaring that her generous husband ate
corn, so that she could eat wheat. Not only did their European
stomachs find the gritty grain hard to digest, their initial
prejudices singled out corn as a Native American food, which they
considered sinful and “tainted with savagery.” However, since
wheat grew poorly in our rocky soil, they had few other choices, so
they learned how to plant and cook this “turkey wheat.”
Corn in colonial New England was tough to chew, so Native
Americans combined it with beans and squash or ground it into
cornmeal, soaked it in water, and fried it. The colonists adapted
their methods, using animals’ intestines or cloth bags to slowly
simmer the cornmeal into what they called a “pudding.” This
“hasty” or “Indian” pudding became a staple of early
Connecticut diets, but even mixed with other foods like fruit, meat,
or nuts, it was a decidedly unpopular dish, receiving little but
scorn for the next 100 years.
However, as European stomachs adjusted, hasty pudding became a
healthy and tasty part of the meal and was often served as a side
dish, like a traditional English pudding, or fried for breakfast.
There were three versions alone in our country’s first cookbook,
American Cookery by Amelia Simmons, published in Hartford in
1796. Simmons and others suggested scalded milk instead of water,
eggs, molasses, and spice. All agreed that “the preparation of this
pudding cannot be hurried.” The cornmeal needs to absorb liquid and
thicken slowly, or it “will be spoiled.”
By the 1800s, the people of Connecticut felt a keen nostalgia for
this meal. While touring Europe, author and diplomat Joel Barlow
wrote the famous, mock-heroic poem, The Hasty-Pudding, after
a meal of the Italian variation of this dish, polenta.
I sing the sweets I know, the charms I feel,
My morning incense, and my evening meal,
The sweets of Hasty Pudding. Come, dear bowl,
Glide o’er my palate, and inspire my soul.
A half century later, Harriet Beecher Stowe spoke of the Indian puddings of her youth with the same longing. But by then, the dish was already shifting from a breakfast food to a dessert. This was due to the growing availability of wheat from huge Midwestern farms and sugar cane from the Caribbean. As American taste buds became accustomed to sweeter dishes, more sugary recipes were created. A recipe from Torrington in 1904 even suggested putting layers of “boiled frosting” between tiers of Indian pudding to make a “layer cake.”
Into the 20th century, Indian pudding remained a common dish, featured in such places as Connecticut Magazine. As corn itself became sweeter, though, cooks turned to fritters, chowder, flap jacks, and roasted ears as the best ways to prepare this vegetable. As cornmeal faded from the northeast in the mid-20th century, Indian pudding, unfortunately, disappeared from restaurant menus, remaining primarily in inns and taverns as a nostalgic throwback.
Thank you for reading and sharing my history and Norwich Community blog freely with your family or friends or anyone you think might be interested or in a position to take on some of the suggested projects. Don’t hesitate to contact me for further information. I am happy to pass along anything I can. Together we can make a difference. Email comments on this blog to berylfishbone@yahoo.com View my past columns at http://www.norwichbulletin.com/section/blogs .