Schuyler is a county with a vexing geographic challenge – but also with terrific opportunities.
Schuyler County wraps up around Seneca Lake on the each side of the lake’s southern half, which means that two places within sight of each other, two miles apart as the goose flies, might take almost an hour by road to travel between. Emergency services, and the highway department, can find this frustrating.
On the other hand, it means that Schuyler County keeps a firm grip on that wonderful lake, the largest of the Finger Lakes by area, depth, and volume, though Cayuga Lake’s a little longer.
Apart from Nassau and the Bronx, Schuyler is New York’s youngest county, created in 1854. Chemung, Steuben, and Tompkins all gave up ground to make this possible.
There were 31 states back, California having been admitted in 1850. The Republican party (then a party of big government and human rights) came into existence in 1854. Abraham Lincoln came out of political retirement to re-enter the arena that same year. Franklin Pierce was president. Woodrow Wilson and Theodore Roosevelt were not yet born. John F. Kennedy’s great-grandparents were only just arriving in America. The Light Brigade made their fateful charge. Thoreau published Walden. Four million Americans were slaves.
Schuyler has three tremendous tourist attractions: the lake, the Glen, and Watkins Glen International raceway. If you count all the wineries together, then that makes a fourth.
The best-known village used to be called just Watkins, but mail kept coming in addressed by its best-known feature: Watkins Glen. Eventually the name was officially changed to reflect reality.
The Glen was a private tourist attraction in the 19th century, and later became a state park. The attraction was a clever way to get some return from an otherwise harshly unproductive piece of real estate. The C.C.C. (Civilian Conservation Corps) upgraded the facilities in the 1930s.
Making your way through the gorge takes you by rushing water, roaring reverberations, falls, whirlpools, overhanging cliffs… it’s really quite an experience. I stopped on a trail once to help some visitors with their map, and the woman said, “You people should advertise this place more. I’ve been to Hawaii, and I’ve been in their gorges, and they’re nothing like this.”
The Finger Lakes Trail slices right through the park, and then the village, on is way across Schuyler County. It’s fun to wander the village shopping district, with its antique stores, restaurants, and old-time downtown walk-in movie theater… love that place.
Outdoor murals spotlight auto racing. The sidewalks are inset with blocks honoring notable drivers. You can drive the route of the original grand prix (at a suitable speed), and see which vehicle’s on exhibit at the International Motor Racing Research Center.
The Catharine Marsh Trail circles through that vast lovely marsh. The Catharine Valley Trail (on the old canal/trolley line) heads down toward Horseheads via Montour Falls, where you can walk the Queen Catharine Historic Loop.
In Montour Falls the main shopping/business street makes a T right at the famous falls, which are a breathtaking sight in times of high water. Historic buildings include what’s perhaps the loveliest library in the region, and the Brick Tavern, home to Schuyler County Historical Society.
Legends abound about Seneca Lake, including the story about mysterious guns or cannon heard from time to time. It’s said that old-timers used to fill their car radiators with Seneca water, because “Seneca Lake never freezes.” Actually it does, and so did the radiators. And you’ll still hear the laughable story that Seneca Lake is so deep that the navy used to use it to test submarines.
Geographically and by population, Watkins Glen stands between those other head-of-the-lake towns, Ithaca and Hammondsport. We first encountered Watkins (and Schuyler) stopping for lunch after a few stress-lowering days in Ithaca, lovingly provided by my parents prior to my wife’s (highly successful!) open-heart surgery. We liked it, and we said we’d have to come back. And we often do.